sauced

White Bean Dip with Garlic Scapes

By Liz

I'm not one to gush over food normally, but nothing makes me happier than seeing garlic scapes at the farmer's market. I noticed them outside my work today, and returned from a lunch break with armfuls of scapes and four different types of basil plants (my desk smelled amazing all afternoon).

I associate spring with scapes, the curled garlic flower with a mild, mellow taste of garlic and the charm of a bouquet. Maybe this is because New York is still raining like it's spring; I wore a coat (a coat! in June!) to work today. Scapes were small consolation, but it helped that this is one of my all-time favorite dips.

Use this recipe as a basic set of flavors, and throw in some rosemary and lemon zest in there if you're feeling adventurous. My photos really don't do the dip justice, since there was no light (see aforementioned rain, grrr) and I was too hungry to do much about it. But oh my it's good - try it, truly.

White Bean and Garlic Scapes Dip

From the New York Times

• 1/3 cup sliced garlic scapes (3 to 4)
• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, more to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt, more to taste
• Ground black pepper to taste
• 1 can (15 ounces) cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, more for drizzling.

1. In a food processor, process garlic scapes with lemon juice, salt and pepper until finely chopped. Add cannellini beans and process to a rough purée.

2. With motor running, slowly drizzle olive oil through feed tube and process until fairly smooth. Pulse in 2 or 3 tablespoons water, or more, until mixture is the consistency of a dip. Add more salt, pepper and/or lemon juice, if desired.

3. Spread out dip on a plate, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with more salt.

Yield: 1 1/2 cups.

Samosa Cups with Mango Chutney

By Liz

My husband has many wonderful qualities, but holidays are not his strong suit. Like most men, he views Valentine's Day as an overwrought celebration created by marketers to sell flowers. He has a fair point… but unfortunately, it’s completely negated by the fact that I, like most women, love flowers.

So let us just pause for just a moment to appreciate the blossom bonanza, unprecedented in our four years together, that exploded in my apartment today (all the more impressive since Shravan’s in Rwanda at the moment):

What does this have to do with cooking? Well, the sudden transformation of v-day from a burden to a pleasure set me thinking about recipes that could use a similar reinvention.

Some of my favorite snacks are potato samosas, fittingly the first Indian recipe I attempted when I began dating Shravan. I was so proud of myself for painstakingly rolling out the dough, carefully shaping the samosas and deep frying them, smoking up the house and scorching a favorite pan in the process. The result was a huge hit at parties: after they disappeared, guests descended with spoons on the leftover filling.

Then I visited Shravan’s ethnically Indian family in Nairobi for the first time and realized that nobody actually makes their own samosas – it’s such a pain. How could I serve the popular potato mix in a simpler shape?

My quick and easy solution: baked wonton skins, shaped into cups. These bite-size cups lack the deep-fried decadence of the original thing, but they’re simple and they open up the option of additional toppings.

Cue the mango chutney. My obsession with mangoes is well documented, but I had never actually cooked with green ones before, which may explain why I knicked two fingers while trying to peel them. (Note: stand them on end on a cutting board and skin with a sharp peeler before dicing).

I set the mangoes on to simmer, and then turned my skeptical eye to the samosa filling, a departure from Shravan’s dash-of-this dash-of-that mix that I can never properly replicate. But this is about reinvention right? The end result was subtly spicy, with an unusual creaminess from the yogurt and minced tomato stirred in at the end.

And piled in the cup with the mango chutney and a sprig of coriander on top… holy cow (pun intended)! This is beyond good, its incredible, and a great first entry to Regional Recipes, conveniently featuring Indian food this month. I cannot WAIT to serve this at my next party – they’re going to be gone before you can say samosas. 

Samosa Filling
All recipes are loose adaptations from Epicurious.com

3/4 cup red onion, finely chopped
2 minced Thai bird chillies
1 1/2 inch ginger, peeled and grated
1 3/4 teaspoons curry powder
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 large boiling potatoes (1 pound), peeled and finely chopped (1 cm cubes)
1 small tomato, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
2 tablespoons plain yogurt

In a large skillet cook the onion, the chilies, the ginger, the curry powder, the chili powder, the cumin, the cloves, the cinnamon, and the salt in the oil in a large nonstick pan over medium low heat. Stir frequently until the onion is softened, at least 10 minutes.

Add the potato cubes and a tablespoon of water, cover, and simmer until potato is very soft, about 20 minutes.  (Potatoes cubes can also be quickly boiled beforehand if time is an issue). Stir occasionally to make sure the potato isn’t sticking.

Stir in the tomato, the coriander, the yogurt, and black pepper to taste, cook the mixture, stirring, for 1 minute (do not let it boil), and let it cool. (The filling may be made 2 days in advance and kept covered and chilled.)

Wonton Cups

1 package (12 oz.) of frozen wonton squares, defrosted

Preheat oven to 325°F. Brush mini muffin tin with oil. Press wonton squares into miniature muffin cups. Bake until wonton cups are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Cool completely in tins. (Can be made 3 days ahead. Remove cups from tins and store airtight at room temperature.)

Mango Chutney

3 large, unripe mangoes
1/2 cup distilled vinegar
1/3 cup sugar plus additional to taste if mango is very sour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
1/4 cup dried cranberries (or raisins if you prefer)

For seasoning paste
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled
2 fresh Thai bird chilies
5 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

3-inch piece cinnamon stick
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Peel mangoes and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. In a small bowl toss mangoes with vinegar, sugar, salt and craisins.

For seasoning paste: Cut gingerroot into 4 pieces. For a milder chutney, remove seeds and veins from chilies. Puree ginger, chilies, and remaining seasoning paste ingredients in a food processor.

Heat a 4-quart heavy kettle over moderately low heat until hot. Cook seasoning paste and cinnamon stick in oil, stirring frequently, 10 minutes, or until very fragrant. Stir in mango mixture and simmer, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until mangoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Discard cinnamon stick and cool chutney completely. Chutney keeps, covered and chilled, about 1 month.

Grilled Bruschetta with Crab and Grape Salsa

By Liz

The best part of Sauced, and particularly the Grapes of Wrath Challenge, is exploring new flavor combinations. I could have made it through my entire culinary career without pairing crab and grapes, but the result was summery and subtle.

It was a fitting end to an unseasonably warm 45 degree day. (Every girl in New York celebrated by wearing skirts; the guys celebrated the girls’ wearing skirts). As I carried my crab home from the fishmonger without gloves – without gloves! – I dreamed of piling these garlic toasts with fragrant summer tomatoes and basil.

While they’ll be better fresh from the garden, even the winter versions were appealing: simple, beautiful little bites.

I hope we receive a report of how the Grapes of Wrath recipes – Grape Flatbreads, White Chocolate Grapes, and Crab Grape Bruschetta – were received by the ladies of the book club! We love the challenge: If you’d like us to feature a recipe or menu for you, email saucedblog@gmail.com.

Grilled Bruschetta with Crab and Grape Salsa
Adapted from Distinctly Northwest Magazine, in Oregon

1 cup fresh crab meat, free of shell fragments (approx. 1/2 lb.)
1 cup seedless green grapes, rinsed and sliced in half
3-4 tablespoons red onion, minced
2 tablespoons fresh basil, minced
pinch red chili flakes
3/4 cup grape tomatoes, quartered
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon, juiced (about 2 tablespoon)
1 clove garlic, minced

Seasoned oil for brushing bruschetta
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon red chili flakes
1 loaf French baguette, sliced 1/2 inch thick.

In mixing bowl, toss together salsa ingredients. Set aside.

In small bowl, stir together seasoned oil ingredients. Brush onto slices of bead. Preheat gas grill to medium, then grill bread slices until toasted, about 2 minutes on each side. Place on serving tray and top with spoonfuls of salsa.

The salsa can be prepared a couple of hours ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to use. Bread slices can also be toasted on the stovetop or in a pre-heated 400-degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes until golden brown.

I Pledge Allegiance... to Swedish Meatballs

By Liz

The highlight of Saturday’s party was most definitely the food. In addition to the six appetizers already mentioned, John and Judy decided to throw in three more -- Swedish meatballs, Manchego and quince paste, and prosciutto-wrapped melon -- the morning of.

A close runner up: somewhere around midnight, Shravan decided the entire room needed a shot of whiskey. The entire room decided Shravan needed to celebrate his new greencard by reciting the Pledge of Allegiance.

Shravan, confronted by a mass of people chanting patriotic phrases in unison, looked momentarily taken aback, then recovered his composure and shouted, “Communists!”

As John said, we’re gonna have to work on that for the citizenship test.

Delicious Swedish Meatballs
By Waldemar Edwin Ernst Larson, John's grandfather and a true Laplander

1 slice white bread
milk
1 lb. ground beef round
1 medium onion, very finely chopped
Allspice, salt, and pepper, to taste
2 T. flour
2 cubes beef bouillon
water
more allspice to taste

Put bread in a large bowl and pour on as much milk as will soak in.  Add meat, onion, and spices and blend well.  Form mixture into small meatballs.  Cook gently in large frying pan.

When meatballs are browned, sprinkle with flour; continue cooking a few minutes, then add water to make gravy. Add bouillon and allspice and continue until meatballs are cooked through. Continue to add water to keep gravy at proper consistency.

Keep them warm when serving because they will congeal!

Rolling Lamb Phyllo Cigars

The finished products cooling on the multi-purpose fridge/fire escape

Madison surveying the interlopers in her kitchen (not impressed)

Manchego and quince paste (sneak a pre-party bite from that plate at your peril)

Madison inspecting the apple turnovers (still not impressed)

Amazing Incredible Steamed Pork Buns

By Liz

When John and Judy decided to throw their epic appetizer party, they drew up a list of everything they might possibly want to try… and then decided to make all of it. When they ran this brilliant plan by me, I upped the ante by suggesting we throw in homemade steamed pork buns.

Last summer we had fallen collectively in love with the steamed buns at Momofuku, a devotion complicated by our love-hate relationship with the restaurant (overpriced place and overhyped chef), but tempered by the fact that David Chang sure does know his pork.

We procured a bamboo steamer and two cases of wine, and settled in for an epic day of cooking. John and Judy decided to go whole hog (ha!) and in the midst of making eight other appetizers, had brined a pork shoulder overnight, pickled onions, and concocted a tangy BBQ sauce.

Ideally, we’d be smoking Boston Pork Butt on a grill, but we adapted the recipe for a Brooklyn winter, using the fire escape as our second fridge (and, as night fell, freezer). Do not be fooled, the pork buns are not for the weak-willed. I'm fairly comfortable with dough, but this bad boy was all leaden resistance. I coaxed it to rise on the radiator and pleaded with it to knead.

At last, six hours later, we reached the moment of reckoning: we dropped two little buns into the steamer and counted down the seconds with NASA-level focus. We opened the top and… the buns puffed! We did it!!

We had created a masterpiece: fluffy buns stuffed smoky pulled pork, crunchy onions, and tangy bbq sauce. Spontaneous celebration erupted, we grabbed beers from the fire escape fridge, collapsed on the couch, and toasted to our success.

Alton Brown's Pork Brine
4 lb. bone-in pork shoulder

3/4 cup molasses
12 ounces pickling salt
2 quarts bottled water

Brine a bone-in pork shoulder overnight, for 12 hours. Bring the meat to room temperature. Cook at 300 degrees until the meat registers 195 on a meat thermometer. Pull off the bone with two forks while still warm and the fats are still liquid.

Judy's Quick Pickled Onions
3 cup cider vinegar
1 T. sugar
Toasted cumin seeds
2 full red onions, slivered  

Bring vinegar and sugar to a boil, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add slivered onions for a minute. Pour into a glass mason jar in well ventilated area. Let sit for 24 hours.

John's Tangy BBQ sauce
1 cup French's yellow mustard
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup honey
1 t. Worcester
1 t. cayenne
Tabasco and siracha, to taste
Fresh ground pepper
Pinch of salt

Warm all the ingredients together on the stove and simmer for 20 minutes. Cooking mellows out the mustard.

David Chang’s Steamed Buns
1 cup warm water (105-115°F), divided
1/2 teaspoon active dry yeast
3 tablespoons sugar plus a pinch
2 tablespoons nonfat dried milk
3 1/2 cups cake flour (not self-rising)
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

Canola oil for greasing and brushing

Stir together 1/4 cup warm water with yeast and pinch of sugar. Let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in dried milk and remaining 3/4 cup warm water.

Stir together flour and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar in a bowl, then stir in yeast mixture (do not add baking powder yet) with a fork until a dough forms. Knead dough with your hands in bowl until all of flour is incorporated. Turn out dough onto a floured surface and knead, dusting surface and hands with just enough flour to keep dough from sticking, until dough is elastic and smooth but still soft, about 5 minutes. Form dough into a ball.

Put dough in an oiled large bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled, about 2 hours.

Punch down dough, then transfer to a lightly floured surface and flatten slightly into a disk. Sprinkle baking powder over center of dough, then gather edges of dough and pinch to seal in baking powder. Knead dough with just enough flour to keep dough from sticking until baking powder is incorporated, about 5 minutes. Return dough to bowl and cover with plastic wrap, then let dough stand 30 minutes.

Cut 16 (3- by 2-inch) pieces of wax paper. Form dough into a 16-inch-long log. Cut into 16 equal pieces, then lightly dust with flour and loosely cover with plastic wrap. Roll out 1 piece of dough into a 6- by 3-inch oval, lightly dusting surface, your hands, and rolling pin. Pat oval between your palms to remove excess flour, then brush half of oval lightly with oil and fold in half crosswise (do not pinch). Place bun on a piece of wax paper on a large baking sheet and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Make more buns with remaining dough, then let stand, loosely covered, until slightly risen, about 30 minutes.

Set a large steamer rack inside skillet (or wok) and add enough water to reach within 1/2 inch of bottom of rack, then bring to a boil. Carefully place 5 to 7 buns (still on wax paper) in steamer rack (do not let buns touch). Cover tightly and steam over high heat until buns are puffed and cooked through, about 1 1/2 minutes. Transfer buns to a plate with tongs, then discard wax paper and wrap buns in kitchen towels (not terry cloth) to keep warm. Steam remaining buns in 2 batches, adding boiling-hot water to skillet as needed.

Celebratory Snacks

By Liz

So I've been a little MIA in the kitchen lately, what with the Great Greencard Campaign of '09 and the subsequent Awesome Electronics Invasion (Shravan has been indulging in the regular pre-travel ritual of buying electronics for half of Africa, and Citibank in the time-honored tradition of freezing our credit card).

However, this weekend we're going to celebrate both Kenyan victories - Shravan's and Barack's - with an inaguration party overflowing with tasty treats. Our friends John Goodwin and Judy Peacock (referred to affectionately as the Goodcocks) are some of the most adventurous cooks I know, and have assembled a truly ambitious appetizer menu for their shindig:

Stuffed mushrooms with bacon, cream cheese, and sundried tomatoes
Lamb phyllo cigars

Chorizo empanadas

Steamed buns with pulled pork, bbq sauce, and homemade picked onions

Leek, carmelized onion, and raisin dumplings

Apple turnover tartlets

 

I will be helping to prepare this celebratory feast, and Shravan might be putting some new camera toys to use in documenting it, so stay tuned for photos and recipes to come!

Goat Cheese Pastry Bites

By Liz

Shravan and I do a lot of entertaining. Inevitably, one of us (usually me) is just getting out of the shower when the guests arrive, and the other quickly pours guests wine and dives into the kitchen in a blizzard of chopping. It’s a finely-tuned dining duet, which is make possible by our open kitchen, easygoing friends, and free-flowing alcohol.

When I’m on my own, however, I like to have things prepared in advance. When John and Judy arrived for dinner to a quiet kitchen and an elaborate array of prep bowls, they were slightly taken aback. Are you sure you don’t need any help? Anything I can chop?

When I pulled the perfectly-browned appetizers out of the oven, their surprise was obvious (are we that notorious for being last minute?). The misapprehension was due, I believe, to the fact that the puff pastry bites look really fancy, but in fact are anything but.

I had borrowed the recipe from my mother, who in turn had snagged it from a neighbor. I thought I’d add some flair with fresh herbs, but given the untimely demise of my herb plants due to well-intentioned overwatering, I stuck with dried Herbes de Provence.

For the trivia-inclined, Herbes de Provence is a mix of savory, thyme, rosemary, basil, tarragon, and lavender flowers, which give the mix a slightly sweet smell. It goes beautifully with the sweet onions and goat cheese… and the whole assembly process takes under 10 minutes.

Goat Cheese Pastry Bites

1 sheet puff pastry, thawed

1 large onion, preferably sweet, thinly sliced

goat cheese (use lots, crumbled)

Herbs de Provence

Caramelize the onion in 1 T. butter and 1 T. sugar

Cut puff pastry into 24 small rectangles and place on sprayed cookie sheet.

Top generously with caramelized onions and goat cheese and sprinkle with Herbs de Provence.

Bake at 400 degrees for 15-20 minutes until golden brown (about 12 minutes at 400 convection bake).

Best eaten warm.

Serves 6-8.