By Liz
When John and Judy decided to throw their epic appetizer
party, they drew up a list of everything they might possibly want to try… and
then decided to make all of it. When they ran this brilliant plan by me, I upped
the ante by suggesting we throw in homemade steamed pork buns.
Last summer we had fallen collectively in love with the
steamed buns at Momofuku, a devotion complicated by our love-hate relationship with
the restaurant (overpriced place and overhyped chef), but tempered by the fact
that David Chang sure does know his pork.
We procured a bamboo steamer and two cases of wine, and
settled in for an epic day of cooking. John and Judy decided to go whole hog
(ha!) and in the midst of making eight other appetizers, had brined a pork shoulder
overnight, pickled onions, and concocted a tangy BBQ sauce.
Ideally, we’d be smoking Boston Pork Butt on a grill, but we adapted the recipe for a Brooklyn
winter, using the fire escape as our second fridge (and, as night fell,
freezer). Do not be fooled, the pork buns are not for the weak-willed. I'm fairly comfortable with dough, but this bad boy was all leaden resistance. I coaxed it to rise on the radiator and pleaded
with it to knead.
At last, six hours later, we reached the moment of
reckoning: we dropped two little buns into the steamer and counted down the seconds with NASA-level focus. We opened the top and… the buns puffed! We
did it!!
We had created a masterpiece: fluffy buns stuffed smoky
pulled pork, crunchy onions, and tangy bbq sauce. Spontaneous celebration
erupted, we grabbed beers from the fire escape fridge, collapsed on the couch,
and toasted to our success.
Alton Brown's Pork Brine
4 lb. bone-in pork shoulder
3/4 cup molasses
12 ounces pickling salt
2 quarts bottled water
Brine a bone-in pork shoulder overnight, for 12 hours. Bring
the meat to room temperature. Cook at 300 degrees until the meat registers 195
on a meat thermometer. Pull off the bone with two forks while still warm and
the fats are still liquid.
Judy's Quick Pickled Onions
3 cup cider vinegar
1 T. sugar
Toasted cumin seeds
2 full red onions, slivered
Bring vinegar and sugar to a boil, and simmer for 5 minutes.
Add slivered onions for a minute. Pour into a glass mason jar in well
ventilated area. Let sit for 24 hours.
John's Tangy BBQ sauce1 cup French's yellow mustard
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup honey
1 t. Worcester
1 t. cayenne
Tabasco and siracha, to taste
Fresh ground pepper
Pinch of salt
Warm all the ingredients together on the stove and simmer
for 20 minutes. Cooking mellows out the mustard.
David Chang’s Steamed Buns
1 cup warm water (105-115°F), divided
1/2 teaspoon active dry yeast
3 tablespoons sugar plus a pinch
2 tablespoons nonfat dried milk
3 1/2 cups cake flour (not self-rising)
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powderCanola oil for greasing and brushing
Stir together
1/4 cup warm water with yeast and pinch of sugar. Let stand until foamy, 5 to
10 minutes. Whisk in dried milk and remaining 3/4 cup warm water.
Stir together
flour and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar in a bowl, then stir in yeast mixture
(do not add baking powder yet) with a fork until a dough forms. Knead dough
with your hands in bowl until all of flour is incorporated. Turn out dough onto
a floured surface and knead, dusting surface and hands with just enough flour
to keep dough from sticking, until dough is elastic and smooth but still soft,
about 5 minutes. Form dough into a ball.
Put dough in an
oiled large bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and let dough rise
in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled, about 2 hours.
Punch down
dough, then transfer to a lightly floured surface and flatten slightly into a
disk. Sprinkle baking powder over center of dough, then gather edges of dough
and pinch to seal in baking powder. Knead dough with just enough flour to keep
dough from sticking until baking powder is incorporated, about 5 minutes.
Return dough to bowl and cover with plastic wrap, then let dough stand 30
minutes.
Cut 16 (3- by
2-inch) pieces of wax paper. Form dough into a 16-inch-long log. Cut into 16
equal pieces, then lightly dust with flour and loosely cover with plastic wrap.
Roll out 1 piece of dough into a 6- by 3-inch oval, lightly dusting surface,
your hands, and rolling pin. Pat oval between your palms to remove excess flour,
then brush half of oval lightly with oil and fold in half crosswise (do not
pinch). Place bun on a piece of wax paper on a large baking sheet and cover
loosely with plastic wrap. Make more buns with remaining dough, then let stand,
loosely covered, until slightly risen, about 30 minutes.
Set a large
steamer rack inside skillet (or wok) and add enough water to reach within 1/2
inch of bottom of rack, then bring to a boil. Carefully place 5 to 7 buns
(still on wax paper) in steamer rack (do not let buns touch). Cover tightly and
steam over high heat until buns are puffed and cooked through, about 1 1/2
minutes. Transfer buns to a plate with tongs, then discard wax paper and wrap
buns in kitchen towels (not terry cloth) to keep warm. Steam remaining buns in
2 batches, adding boiling-hot water to skillet as needed.
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