sauced

Summer Squash Gratin

By Karena:

Leave it to my husband to want to take fresh summer squash and smother it in cheese and milk.  However, this au gratin recipe actually turned out pretty light and was delicious to boot.  We were inspired by Alice Waters' rendition in her "The Art of Simple Food" Cookbook.  Pile as many herbs in here as you have on hand!

Summer Squash Gratin:

• 6 medium summer squash, we chose a variety of colors
• salt, pepper
• 1 cup cream
• 1/2 cup milk
• Parmesan or Pecorino for grating
• 3 garlic cloves
• a bunch of chopped herbs (we used tarragon, thyme, parsley, chives, and rosemary)

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
2. Wash the squash and cut off both ends.  Using a mandolin, slice the squash and garlic cloves very thin.
3. Arrange a layer of squash and garlic in a medium-sized baking dish.  Sprinkle with some of the herbs and grated cheese and salt and pepper.  Make one or two more layers, each time sprinkling with herbs, cheese and salt and pepper.
4. Pour in the cream and milk.  The liquid should come to the top of the squash (it was a little under the top and worked fine).
5. Sprinkle another layer of herbs, salt, pepper and cheese and bake for 1 hour.  Serve!

Grilled Whole Chicken with Asparagus

By Karena:

It was only a matter of time before we took our chicken from the roasting pan and plopped it on the grill (now that it's no longer banished to the balcony).  This was a heavenly homecoming summer-time feast, complete with herby yogurt for dipping the chicken and a walnut-tapenade/hummus for the grilled asparagus.  We thank Jamie Oliver for the spatchcocked chicken on the grill idea.  The asparagus we stole from A16's cookbook. (And I dare you to ask your American butcher to "spatch-cock" your whole chicken.  After the blank stare, just tell him to cut the chicken open down the spine so that it will lay flat on the grill).

For the chicken marinade:

• a small bunch of summer herbs (marjoram, oregano, parsley, etc)
• olive oil
• juice from one lemon
• salt and pepper

For the chicken:

• 1 small spatchcocked chicken, about 3.5 lbs.
• Sea salt and pepper to taste
• 1 lemon
• 1 cup Greek yogurt
• another small bunch of summer herbs (marjoram, oregano, parsley, etc)

1. Slash the chicken legs about 1/2 inch deep in a few places.
2. Combine the marinade ingredients and rub all over the chicken.  Marinate for about 30 min.
3. Place the chicken on the grill, skin side down.  Once it's golden and begins to crisp, about 4 minutes, turn the chicken over, place a whole lemon on the grill next to the chicken and cook for about 45-55 min.
4. Meanwhile, make the herby yogurt.  Combine the yogurt, herbs, and salt and pepper, and let sit at room temperature.
5. Check for chicken for done-ness, and then take the chicken off the grill, and  let it rest for 5 min. 
6. Cut the roasted lemon in half, and squeeze some juice into the herby yogurt and serve!

For the Asparagus:

• Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• A bunch of large Asparagus
• Kosher salt
• 1 block of Parmesan or similar cheese for grating
• You'll be using your oven AND your grill!

For the Walnut "Crema":

• Kosher Salt
• 3/4 cup walnuts
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 T red onion, diced

1. To make the walnut crema, bring a pot of salted water to a boil.  Add the walnuts and blanch for about 8-10 min, or until tender in the middle.  Drain the walnuts, reserving 1/4 cup of the liquid.  Set aside.

2. In a saute pan, heat some olive oil over medium heat.  Add the onion and some salt and sweat for about 7 minutes, or until golden brown and tender.  Remove from heat.

3. In a food processor, combine the onion, walnuts, and reserved cooking liquid and process until creamy.  Taste for seasoning.  With the processor running, add the olive oil, processing until creamy.  It should have the consistency of hummus. Adjust ingredients to achieve this consistency.  Cover and keep at room temperature.

4. To make the asparagus, preheat the oven to 500 degrees, and lightly coat a baking sheet with olive oil.  Trim off the tough stems of the asparagus and spread them out on the baking sheet.  Season with kosher salt and coat each spear with olive oil.

5. Roast the asparagus for about 8 minutes, then transfer to the grill and continue cooking for about 6 minutes, or until tender and charred around the edges.

6. To serve, spoon the crema evenly on a plate, and then arrange the asparagus spears on top.  Sprinkle with grated Parmesan/Pecorino cheese and a drizzle of olive oil.  Serve immediately!

Grilled Artichokes with Lemon

By Karena:

Nothing says summer like grilled artichokes.  This is so simple and so delicious.  Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve with melted butter or mayonnaise.

• Artichokes (1 for every 2 people)
• Fresh-squeezed lemon juice
• Olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• Melted butter or mayonnaise

1. Cut the artichoke length-wise in half.
2. Marinate flat-side down in olive oil, salt, pepper, and lemon juice
3. Boil artichoke halves for 20-25 minutes, or until tender in the middle
4. Re-apply some olive oil, salt, pepper and lemon juice.  Grill face-down for 5 minutes until charred on the outside leaves.
5. Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve with melted butter or mayonnaise for dipping.

Grilled Fillet Steak with the Creamiest White Beans and Leeks

By Karena:

With a name like that, it has to be Jamie Oliver-inspired.  We wanted something simple that was going to taste complicated.  This delivered.  I think this is a new favorite for those nights when you just want a good grilled steak and something creamy alongside it. The leeks smell amazing while they're simmering.  (Serves 2)

• 2 leeks, washed, trimmed, and finely sliced
• a small bunch of fresh thyme, leaves picked
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
• olive oil
• butter
• a wineglass of white wine
• 1/2 lb good quality lima beans (butter beans), drained and rinsed
• a handful of fresh parsley, chopped
• 1/2 T creme fraiche or yogurt
• extra virgin olive oil
• sea salt and pepper to taste
• Enough Well-marbled fillet steaks for everyone
• 1 lemon

1. Sweat the leeks, thyme and garlic with a splash of olive oil and butter in a saucepan on low heat for 20 minutes until they are soft and sweet.
2. Turn up the heat and add the white wine and let it come to a boil. 
3. Add the beans and a splash of water, so that they are almost covered.
4. Allow to simmer for 5 to 10 minutes until beans are creamy.
5. Add the parsley, creme fraiche and a glug of extra virgin olive oil and taste for seasoning.  Set aside.

1. Heat a griddle pan or grill and season your steaks on both sides with salt, pepper, and olive oil.
2. (This is Dave's method):  Grill for 2 minutes, then rotate 90 degrees on the same side and grill for another two minutes.
3. Flip the steaks over and grill for two minutes.  Rotate 90 degrees and grill for another two minutes to achieve that "checkered grill-mark" look. 
4. Remove from the grill and let rest for 5 minutes.  Drizzle olive oil and lemon juice over the steaks.
5.  Serve with creamy bean and leek mixture!

Roasted Cauliflower au Gratin

By Karena:

We wanted a unique and warming vegetable side dish to go with our Easter dinner.  This was the perfect choice - rich, creamy, and if you looked closely enough, there was enough vegetable in there to make it healthy.  The key to this is roasting some of the cauliflower, pureeing the rest, and topping it with Bechamel sauce and Gruyere before baking. We got half of this recipe from Guy Fieri's Roasted cauliflower, and the other half from an au gratin recipe on www.bigoven.com.   Yum!

Bechamel sauce:

• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 cups milk, scalded
• 1/4 t salt (for milk)
• 1 bay leaf
• salt and ground white pepper
• a pinch of nutmeg

Au Gratin:

• Head of cauliflower
• olive oil
• 2 cups millk
• salt
• 1/2 T unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup grated Gruyere Cheese

1. To make the bechamel sauce, melt butter over medium-low heat.
2. When it starts to foam, add flour and mix using a wooden spoon to create a smooth, loose paste.  Cook, stirring constantly, allowing butter and flour to froth together until the mixture turns a light, golden color, about 5 minutes.  Remove pan from heat and let stand.
3.  Combine milk and 1/4 t salt in medium saucepan, scald milk, getting it just below boiling point.
4. Return saucepan with roux to medium-low heat.  Add half the hot milk to the roux, whisking to thoroughly blend and prevent lumps.  Bring to a boil.
5.  When a boil is reached, add the remaining milk and bay leaf, reduce heat to low and simmer until the sauce is smooth and thickened, about 10-12 minutes. 
6. Strain sauce through strainer and season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg.  Set aside.

1. To make the Au Gratin, preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Spread 1/4 of the cauliflower florets with olive oil, season with salt and bake until caramelized, about 25 minutes.  Take out the cauliflower and raise the temperature to 375.
2. Meanwhile, combine remaining florets, milk, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat.
3.  Bring mixture to a simmer, cover, and cook until cauliflower is tender, about 20-25 minutes.
4. Strain cauliflower from milk mixture, reserving both.
5. Transfer boiled cauliflower to a blender.  Add butter and season with salt.  Add half of the reserved milk liquid.  Puree until smooth.  Season, to taste.
6. Pour pureed cauliflower into a baking dish, and place roasted cauliflower on top.  Pour in just enough bechamel sauce to cover and top with grated Gruyere.  Bake at 375 for 30-35 minutes until golden and bubbly.

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

By Karena:

This is to affirm that even brussels sprouts can be divine.  Or perhaps it proves that anything made with bacon is suddenly edible.  This is adapted from side dishes created by both our friend Eric Henning and Dave's Aunt Sally.  I agree that these small green delicacies are not exactly in season, but they're still delicious and it's still in the low 60's in Oakland these days, so I don't feel bad for making winter fare.

• 1 lb. Brussels Sprouts, diced into quarters
• Two slabs of bacon/pancetta, diced
• Sea Salt and Freshly Ground Pepper, to taste
• Olive Oil
• 3 garlic cloves, diced
• 1 shallot, diced

1. Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Brown the diced bacon pieces in a saute pan.
3. Saute the garlic and shallots with the bacon.
4. Throw the quartered brussels sprouts into a baking dish and mix with the sauteed bacon, garlic and shallots.  Season with salt and pepper and a drizzle of olive oil and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until the brussels sprouts are roasted and soft.  Enjoy!

Sauteed Salmon with Leeks

By Karena:

Despite a re-kindled love-affair with our grill, this is our new favorite way to prepare Salmon.  Fast and simple, yet totally luxurious.  If you like sushi, you'll LOVE sauteing good-quality fatty salmon just enough to cook the bottom and heat the top layer into a melt-in-your mouth experience.  I would expect no less mastery from Thomas Keller.  Serve over leeks cooked in a creamy Beurre Blanc and what's not to love? 

For the Leeks/Beurre Blanc:

8 large leeks (1.5 lbs)
1/4 cup thinly sliced shallots
1 large thyme sprig
1 large Italian parsley sprig, plus 1 t minced parsley
1 bay leaf
6 black peppercorns
2/3 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup champagne vinegar
1/4 cup heavy cream
8 oz. unsalted butter, cut into small chunks and chilled
2-3 T fish fumet or chicken stock (we used chicken stock)
1 t minced chervil/tarragon/chives

For the Salmon:

4 6-oz pieces of center-cut salmon fillet, skin and bones removed
kosher salt and white pepper
canola oil
1/2 cup fish fumet or chicken stock

1. Leeks:
Use only the light green sections of the leeks; discard the white and dark green portions as well as the tough outer layer and save for vegetable stock, etc.  Cut the light green sections into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. 
2. Place the rounds in a large bowl of warm water and swish them gently to remove any dirt, being careful not to separate the rounds. Lift them out of the water.
3. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Prepare an ice bath.  Add half the leeks to the boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes, or until tender.
4. Transfer leeks to a colander or strainer and plunge them into the ice bath for no more than 15 seconds.
5. Drain and repeat with the remaining leeks.
6. The leeks can be prepared to this point up to a day ahead, covered, and stored in the refrigerator

1. Beurre Blanc:
Put the shallots, thyme, parsley sprig, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a medium saucepan and add the white wine and champagne vinegar. 
2. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to about 1 Tablespoon.  Remove from heat.
3. To finish, add the heavy cream to the reduction, place the pan over medium heat, and simmer to reduce the liquid by half.  The sauce should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
4. Begin adding the butter one piece at a time, whisking constantly to keep the sauce emulsified.  Add a new piece of butter before the previous one has completely melted.
5. The sauce should remain warm to the touch but not be simmering.  When all the butter is incorporated, strain the beurre blanc into a small saucepan.
6. Stir in the fumet or stock and keep in a warm place.

1. Salmon:
The thinnest part of the fillet should not measure less than 1/2 inch thick.  If the salmon is cold, let it stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before cooking.
2. Season the skinned side with salt and white pepper.  Season the other side with salt only. 
3. Heat 1/8 inch of canola oil in a large nonstick skillet. 
4.  When the oil is hot, place the salmon skinned side down in the hot oil and cook on one side only for about 5-6 minutes.  Regulate the temperature, turning it down as necessary to keep the edges from browning too quickly.  The fish is done when the bottom is crispy, and the fillet is cooked about halfway up the flesh.  The top should still be rare.

1. Completion:
Put the leeks in a medium saucepan, add the 1/2 cup stock, and heat over medium heat until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Gently warm the beurre blanc and stir in the minced parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives.
3.  Divide the sauce among serving plates, place the leeks in the middle of the plate, and top with a salmon fillet.  Bon Appetit! 

Roast Chicken and Frites!

By Karena:

Dave and I are in grilling withdrawal.  Every time we think of a good idea for dinner, we stare longingly at our cold, sheathed grill on the balcony, banished by the Apartment-Complex Gods for being a fire hazard.  On April 1st the ban will be no more as we move to our new East Bay alcove of an apartment, complete with a place to grill and eat outside just in time for Spring and Summer. Until then, we've turned to roasting, and this recipe adapted from Thomas Keller's Poulet Roti is no disappointment.  Quick to make and pairs well with so much.  We fried our own hand-cut frites, made a simple arugula and radish salad, finished a bottle of Beaujolais between us, and truly enjoyed one of our last evenings in our soon to be vacated apartment.

 

Roast Chicken:

• 1 2-3 lb farm-raised chicken
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 t of minced thyme
• 2 t of minced rosemary
• Unsalted butter
• Dijon mustard (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F
2. Rinse the chicken, then dry it very well with paper towels, inside and out
3. Salt and Pepper the cavity, then truss the bird
4. Salt the chicken.
5. Place the chicken in a saute pan (we did this and it worked great!) or roasting pan and place in the oven.
6. Roast until its done (50-60 min), then take it out and add the thyme and rosemary to the drippings in the pan.  Baste the chicken with the juices and herbs and let it rest for 15 minutes on a cutting board.
7. Slather with butter and carve and serve with Dijon mustard (optional)

Home-made Frites: (or chips - adapted from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's "The River Cottage Meat Book"

• 2 large, floury potatoes, such as Russet (serves 2-4)
• A quart of vegetable oil or peanut oil for frying
• Sea salt
• Old Bay

1. Cut the potatoes into fairly thin frites and put in a large bowl of cold water and swish them around to remove some of the starch
2. Drain well on a kitchen towel
3. Heat plenty of oil to 285 degrees F in a deep-fat fryer or deep saucepan (We used our large Le Creuset pot)
4. Put a batch of the frites into the basket or oil and fry for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and flabby, but not colored.  (This takes some practice, some of ours colored too quickly and tasted burnt)
5. Drain on paper towels and do the same with the other batches. (All of the above steps can be completed several hours ahead of time)
6. Just before you want to serve the frites, heat the oil to 375 degrees F and fry the frites in batches again, until crisp and brown (Only about 2 minutes)
7. Drain on paper towels, and sprinkle with sea salt and Old Bay, if desired

We served with homemade Aioli (third time's the charm!) and they were delicious!

Chairman Mao's Red-Braised Pork

By Karena:

It's about time that Dave and I showcased something out of this cookbook.  Fuchsia Dunlop's Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook on Hunan cooking is a staple in our household; a gift that keeps on giving.  Not suited for a non-fat diet, this particular recipe really was a favorite of Chairman Mao's - he apparently insisted that all his personal chefs know the recipe and prepare it often.  You can find it in many Chinese restaurants specializing in Hunan cooking, or you can ask for it by its Chinese name, "Mao Shi Hong Shao Rou".  The star anise and chilis were really aromatic, making it difficult to wait the 45 minutes for it to simmer!  We served it over basmati rice and paired it with our favorite baby bok choy side dish and it was delicious!

Chairman Mao's Red-Braised Pork (Serves 4)

• 1 lb. Pork Belly or Pork Spare Ribs
• 2 T Peanut Oil
• 2 T White Sugar
• 1 T Shaoxing Cooking Wine
• 3/4 oz. fresh ginger, skin left on and sliced
• 1 Star Anise
• 2 Dried Red Chilis
• 1 Cinnamon Stick
• Light Soy Sauce
• 3 Green Onions, green and white parts chopped
• Salt

1. Plunge the pork into a pan of boiling water and simmer for 3-4 minutes until partially cooked.  Remove and, when cool enough to handle, cut into bite-sized chunks. If using spare ribs, slice along the bone, leaving the bone in for additional flavor.
2. Heat the oil and sugar in a wok over a gentle flame until the sugar melts, then raise the heat and stir until the melted sugar turns a rich caramel brown.  Add the pork and splash in the Shaoxing wine.
3. Add enough water to just cover the pork, along with the ginger, star anise, chilis and cinnamon stick.  Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for 40-50 minutes.
4. Towards the end of the cooking time, turn up the heat to reduce the sauce and season with soy sauce, salt and a littlle sugar to taste.  Garnish with green onions and serve!

Sauteed Baby Bok Choy: (Serves 4)

• 1 lb. Baby Bok Choy, bottoms discarded and stems/leaves chopped in half.
• 3 garlic cloves, diced
• 2 T Shaoxing Wine
• 3 glugs of Peanut Oil
• Salt and Pepper to taste

1. Heat a saute pan and heat the peanut oil until hot.
2. Throw in the diced garlic and cook until soft.
3. Add the fresh Bok Choy leaves and coast with the oil.
4. Add more oil if desired, splash in the Shoaxing wine and stir in salt and peper to taste.
5. Cook until Bok Choy is soft and wilted about 4-5 minutes.
6. Take off the heat and enjoy!

Pan-fried Sirloin Steak with Simple Chianti Butter Sauce and Olive Oil Mash

By Karena

My Valentine's Day present was traveling the road from Reno to San Francisco (negotiating the treacherous I-80 through Lake Tahoe with chains) to be home in time to plan and prepare a wonderful dinner with my husband.  After a month on the road, getting "sauced" with my better half and creating a culinary masterpiece (using the predictable Jamie Oliver recipe) was the the perfect ending to a long trip that I shan't repeat anytime soon. 

We had a "meat, starch, vegetable" composition in mind, probably because last year, Dave surprised me with a perfectly seared lamb chop over a bed of sauteed greens and a white bean mash, initiating a Valentine's Day tradition.  So we turned to Jamie Oliver...Pork belly with braised fennel?...Rack of lamb with potato and cauliflower dauphinois?  How about a Pan-fried sirloin with a red-wine reduction and mashed potatoes seasoned with parmesan, olive oil and butter?  Vegetable TBD.

To Market...San Francisco's Ferry Building Farmer's Market was a sight for sore eyes.  We got a little off track standing in line for Blue Bottle Coffee, and then at the Primavera tent for Chiliquiles and Carnitas tostadas.  Samples of sweet Blood Oranges called out to us, and so we returned to the car with three blood oranges, three navel oranges, full stomachs, and nothing for dinner.

To Berkeley...Monterey Market is bustling...bordering on obnoxious, on Saturdays, but spending $14.00 on produce for the WEEK makes it well worth the elbows and eccentric clientele.  A pound of Yukon Gold potatoes, a bunch of arugula, a bouquet of fresh greens (and purples) mixed by yours truly, a pound of Brussels sprouts, watercress, thyme, tarragon (for seafood stew), golden raspberries (for homemade waffles Sunday morning), pears for salad, limes for gin and tonics, and plenty of shallots ought to do the trick.

To Andronico's...Although Andronico's are a dime a dozen in the East Bay, they're good little supermarkets and usually have very fresh meat and seafood.  We splurged on a 1-lb Niman Ranch Sirloin cut, picked up some bleu cheese for later in the week, and moved on to the last stop. 

To Vintage...Vintage Berkeley is our favorite wine shop.  http://www.vintageberkeley.com.   They are housed in an old Municipal Pump Station turned boutique, specialize in small labels under $25, and have tastings every weekend.  Dave and I also made a friend in one of their wine experts - the lovely Hannah Hoffman, who is living my dream as a Food Anthropologist.  We met snickering over the "Band-aid Lady of Berkeley", (don't ask) and hit it off right away.  At Vintage, we collected a Zinfandel (Jamie's pairing suggestion), A Bleu Franc from Washington, and a Gros Manseng for a potential pesto later in the week.

 

NOW for the cooking. :)  We popped open the Zinfandel because we were thirsty after all the hunting and gathering, and because we assumed correctly that we would end up using it instead of Chianti for the reduction.  

Pan-Fried Sirloin Steak With Simple Chianti (Zinfandel) Butter Sauce and Olive Oil Mash: (Adapted from Jamie Oliver's recipe in Cook With Jamie).

For the Mashed Potatoes:

• 14 oz. potatoes, peeled and halved
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Extra Virgin Olive oil
• A small handful of freshly grated Parmesan Cheese
• A knob of butter

For the Rest:

• 2 x 7 oz Sirloin Steaks, 1-inch thick, fat scored
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Olive Oil
• 2 knobs of butter
• 2 shallots, peeled and finely diced
• A few sprigs of Thyme
• 1 large wineglass of Chianti/Zinfandel that you've been drinking
• A few sprigs of watercress
• Good Quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1. Put the potatoes into a large pan of salted water, bring to a boil and simmer until soft and tender.  Drain them in a colander and allow them to sit for 4 minutes to steam away any excess moisture.  Return the potatoes to the pan and mash them up, stirring in a large glug of olive oil, the Parmesan and butter. Taste, season, and then transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and place over a pot of simmering water to keep warm.

2. Heat a heavy frying pan, large enough to cook both the steaks at once without them touching.  Season your steaks and brush them with olive oil.  Using a pair of tongs, hold the steaks fatty-edge down in the frying pan to render and color the fat.  When the fat is golden, fry the steaks for 8 minutes in total for medium-rare, turning them every minute.  Remove from the pan to rest.

3.Turn the heat down and add a knob of butter to the pan.  Fry your shallots and thyme for 4 minutes, then add the wine and reduce by half.  Pour in the resting juices from the meat, add the 2 remaining knobs of butter and take the pan off the heat.  Stir around to emulsify and make a really simple red wine sauce.  Taste, season and serve with your steak and lovely olive oil mashed potatoes with a scattering of watercress and a drizzle of good olive oil.

Simple Sauteed Spinach:

We had some left-over spinach in the refrigerator and decided to put it to good use.  This is one of the easiest side vegetable dishes to make.

• 1 lb Spinach leaves
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Olive Oil
• 1-2 garlic clove(s), diced
• A splash of Shao Xing Cooking wine or Rice Vinegar

1. Heat the oil in a saute pan until smoking
2. Saute the garlic in the oil until cooked
3. Throw the spinach leaves in the pan in batches until wilted
4. Season with salt and pepper and splash in the Shao Xing wine to taste.  Take off the heat and enjoy immediately!